Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Final Blog--Home


Well I have almost been home for one week. I have yet to make it to IL to see my family but I plan on heading there in the next few days.  Getting to be here in PA on Saturday for Andy (my boyfriends) graduation meant a lot to him and I both. I was nice to spend a few days in the country side with him and his family as well. I am really looking forward to next week getting home to my family and spending some quality with them.
I can already tell that my trip has changed me forever. I cannot simply look and things as I did before or live my life the way that I did before. I feel like I have a whole new lens to look at my own life issues as well as large world issues; a more informed critical one. I am excited as to what these next few weeks and months are going to bring my way. I will be moving to Washington DC within the next month or so and hopefully finding an internship or even a job. I cannot believe that I am now finished with college. I could not have dreamt a better way to spend my last semester of college. 

Friday, May 11, 2012

Saying Good-Bye


Sitting here I can’t even mentally fathom that in just a few short hours I am going to be back in the United States. Back into my own context and to the people and things that used to be comfortable to me. I am so nervous. I am nervous that I have changed so much that it will be hard for me to relate to what used to be mine.  I’m nervous that the people I love won’t understand the things I’ve seen and why I feel the way I do and that I won’t be able to relay it to them even if they do what to hear it all. I’m nervous to be alone (even if it is only for the few hours of my travels home), I have been with 15 people all the time for the last four months. I am scared that I am about to graduate college, I have this new knowledge (but still don’t even understand or know so much) and I now have to apply it to a real job. How do I do everything that I have seen, heard and experienced justice; can I?
 I am sitting at the airport in Nicaragua waiting to board my flight back to the states. I can’t believe it’s over. The last four months were possibly the fastest four months of my life. They were intense and wonderful. I made friends that I will forever cherish. As I am sitting her reflecting over the whole semester and all of the incredible people we spoke with and things that I learned; apathy is no longer an option. I have to take the things and I have seen and heard and make changes. I know that as one little person I will never change the world, but what I can do is make changes in my daily life and live a life that reflects and respects the type of life that I want to live. The massacre testimonies we heard, maquila factory workers the war torn communities, they all entrust their stories in our hands with the promise that their story go untold.  I have learned more in these four months here in Central America than I have learned in my entire four years of college. While there are certainly beautiful pictures of the places we have been, that is not what this semester was about. 
                I remember after my first trip to Central America I thought, wow there is so much that I could do to volunteer there and be of help to the people there. I was wrong. The greatest help that I can be is becoming an advocate for better U.S. foreign policy particularly towards LA but the rest of the world. The power that simply being a United States Citizen holds is huge. I know that alone I would not make an impact but I know there are many organizations and people out there already organized and working towards a greater world with greater equality. I cannot wait to get started finding my place in the crazy world, where and how I can serve a purpose. 

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Solidarity


Solidarity: what does it mean to actually be in solidarity with a people? Solidarity is something that is talked a lot about but what is it really? Being here in Nicaragua we have heard a lot about the solidarity groups of the 80’s: Witness for Peace (WFP) and CUSCLIN (Community of U.S. Citizens Living in Nicaragua) among many others. We always here words like empathy, togetherness and reciprocity. But what does it being in solidarity with a people really look like?
Because of all of these questions for the final project of our classes a group of us decided to do a presentation and investigate. We were able to interview a few different people; the FSLN official international relations director (he coordinated solidarity groups coming to Nicaragua), Lillian Hall who worked for the Ministry of Agrarian Reform and WFP, and Aynn Setrite a Witness for Peace Volunteer.  It was very interesting to hear them talk about their experiences of the 80’s and what it meant to them to be in solidarity with the Nicaraguan people.  In Aynn’s time with WFP volunteer she drove an ambulance in the war zone of Jinotega.  Lillian and Aynn both felt like for them being in solidarity meant accompanying the people of the war zone. Staying with the people when things got bad; navigating the roadways infested with land mines and when their villages were getting invaded.  But it also meant being here in Nicaragua a U.S. citizen who was opposed to the Contra War that Regan was feverishly funding.
 I think this is really important because it think “solidarity” is now often seen as short term “mission/ service” trips; which I think are semi-helpful but are by no means addressing the real problems. We talked with another WFP volunteer of the 80’s who has lived here since and now works in popular education and sustainable farm development projects in rural communities, she gave the example of a project that was carried out. In a small rural Nicaraguan village an organization came in and “donated” the money and workers to put in latrines for the community,  and here they are years down the road and the only time the latrines get used is when foreigners come. These types of projects are often seen as solidarity work though.  Cleary the latrines would increase the level of sanitation and I’m assuming decrease certain illness, the project was not sustainable. If the community doesn’t want to use or know why they should be using the latrines; they aren’t going to use them (This get into the whole top-down implementation of things—but I won’t get into that now).  Through doing these interviews though and really looking at what solidarity really looks like; I think it is a very rare thing these days.  As one of our interviewees said, “I think solidarity brings you to somewhere new ”. I think this is so true, to truly be in solidarity with a people is not just popping your face in helping out a bit. Real solidarity means accompanying a people through the good and the bad. It’s a sharing experience from both ends: it’s a solid[arity] change.

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Friends



I chose this program knowing that it was going to be an intensive program. Not many people choose to tour developing countries for their study abroad program.  This program has been intense in the sense of many different ways, but intense in a challenge of living with (sometimes) and spending a lot of time with 15 people. At first I felt very overwhelmed by feeling of constantly being with people; but I have grown to love and appreciate everyone. We have spent an intense 16 weeks together; at times I would have given anything to just be in a room alone. I think this experience has pushed me (and I think others would agree) to challenge how I would normally act and push my comfort zones—I think everyone needs that every now and again and I am a better person because of it. Being in this space so intensively with my classmates has also challenged me academically; forcing me to be the best student that I can be. It has been great to challenge each other and learn from seeing others perspectives.  But most of all I am taking away new friendships that I feel will be everlasting. I hope that I will have the support system of this shared experience and continue to challenge each other in our lives to put into action the things that we have seen and learned. 

Monday, May 7, 2012

Nicaraguan Family


We moved in with our families in Batahola Norte the week before we left for spring break and lived with them for 5 weeks after we got back. I feel very lucky to have had the wonderful host families that I have had throughout this entire program, but my family in Batahola Norte are particularly wonderful. We lived with Marta, Leo Sr., their youngest son, his wife, and their three children (ages 10, 8, 6). We live in a humble little four room house with a corrugated tin roof and plywood to divide the bedroom walls. Marta is a stay at home grandma, she stays at home during the days talking care of her daughters little girl Margarita (1 and a half years old) and taking care of the house. Margarita was one of the highlights of my host family. I always looked forward to see here in the morning before we leave for school and in the evenings when we got home. Marta is the other highlight. She is so sweet, constantly worrying about us and taking care of us. She makes us fresh juice every day and cooks us wonderful homemade Nicaraguan food. Gallo-pinto (rice and bean fried together) is the staple of the diet here and we eat it with every meal. I have come to love Marta’s gallo-pinto in particular.








                Today was a sad day; we all moved back into the center where we study for the last few remaining days. Saying good bye to the families was really difficult. Not only hard to say goodbye to my own family but to the community. Over the course of the last 5 weeks we have spent a lot of time and gotten to know many of the other host families in the community. As Marta told us, “My door is always open and you will always have a Nicaraguan family here”.  I feel very grateful to have shared this experience with them and I will forever have a place in my heart for them. 

Weekend Excursions in Nica


I can’t help but be happy when I think of where I am in my life and physically in the world. Being here in Central America—Nicaragua I have had the opportunity see many things that I otherwise (being from a small town in Midwestern Illinois) might not have got to experience. I appreciate this semester I have had in Central America not only for the knowledge it has brought me, but for the traveling that I have been able to do in my free time.  We have seven weeks in total here in Nicaragua; with all of our weekends free. Including spring break, I have traveled every weekend to the different hot spots of Nicaragua. For Spring break I traveled to one of the two old capital cities in Nicaragua: Leon. We spent a few days there, hiked Cerro Negro and Volcano Boarded down it. Then we traveled to the Las Piñatas, a community on the Pacific Coast. There we spent the remainder of spring break on the coast; where I took surfing lessons. I also took a weekend trip to the famous San Juan Del Sur; a beautiful town on also on the Pacific Coast. We have visited the Masaya Volcano just outside of Managua, and it erupted (or had a volcanic burp) the next day.  As a group we took a day trip to the other historical capital of Grenada. My favorite trip was to the canyon in the little town of Somoto. We hired a tour guide who led us on a hike down into the canyon where we did a combination of hiking and swimming town this beautiful canyon.  







Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Rural Home stay -- Coffee Cooperative


As Central American style would have it our expected 2 hour journey to Estelí on Tuesday morning ended up taking about 5 hours.  Ex-military personal set up a tronke  blocking the road leaving Managua—so we had to turn around, head back to Managua, and  leave town heading the other way. As I have learned you never know what you are going to find when traveling here; it is always an adventure of some sort. We only spent one night in the town of Estelí (which is one of Nicaragua’s largest tobacco producing towns) and headed the next day on the second half of our journey further up into the mountains of Nicaragua.
 Our last home stay was in a community called Santule. This community, as many other Nicaraguan and Central American families, has a long history of coffee production.  In this sleepy little town of only about 200 people, there are about 12 small coffee cooperatives. Each cooperative’s members have coffee trees on their land to harvest and sell the beans; mostly organically produced. When it is time to harvest each cooperative member pools their crops together to sell to the buyers who buy the “green beans” as they call them. The beans are then roasted, packaged, and exported around the world.  
During these three days we spent up there we had the opportunity to stay with the farmers and their families. As we have been here for three months now, done a fair bit of traveling and stayed with a variety of different families; I have seen varying levels of poverty. However, the poverty in Santule, struck me. My family and all of the families had kitchens that consisted of dirt floors, a wood burning stove and maybe a dining room table. None of the families had running water; all of the water they used had to be carried in buckets from hand crank wells—there were two in the community. There was mostly no electricity. A few families, through international aid, have managed to buy solar panels to have a little bit of power to use in the nights. I say that I was struck by the poverty because going into the homestay I was very excited to see how an organic, fair trade coffee cooperatives worked and how they have improved the lives of the families.
 The farmers of the fair trade organic coffee get certified as an organic farmer (which costs the farmer around 4,000 US dollars) and this insures the farmer a certain minimum price for their crop even if the international market for coffee drops. I don’t understand how it can be labeled “fair trade” when the farmer, who is doing the majority of the work, might make around 6,000 US dollars a year. Yet to buy a bag of whole bean coffee from Starbucks for example costs $11.95.  While if the farmers had access to money to buy the machinery needed to take the coffee from harvest, to roast, to packaging and exporting; they could reap the real benefits of their work. The main pillars of fair trade are to; pay a fair wage in the local context, provide equal opportunities for all people, particularly the most disadvantaged and to provide financial and technical assistance to workers whenever possible. This is not to discredit fair trade, because I think that fair trade and cooperative work has done wonders for many different communities, but is fair trade really fair trade?

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Humanitarianism or Imperialism



            It is easy to think imperialism is a thing of the past. Manifest Destiny, the Louisiana Purchase, or the Mexican Cession: all things we learned about in history class that happened long ago. Presented simply as Western Expansion; we did it, we have it, it is over with. Countries (particularly the United States) no longer aspire to obtain more land and expand their national boarders, but this idea of imperialism is outdated. Imperialism doesn’t present itself in this clear cut form anymore. Today imperialism manifests itself under a disguise: “humanitarianism”. Though countries no longer quest to expand physically they want to gain subtle and even not so subtle control over resource; resources such as oil, minerals, metals, diamonds, and even newer and cheaper labor forces. All to support the massive machine that is consumerism and therefore the economy.  Once the “developing” world decided that they had reached their max capacity of expansionism, the rules of the game changed. It was no longer a matter of invasion and take over, but rather subtle coercion and control. We will support you (brutal dictator or not) as long as you implement economic policies and play the game under our terms; if not we will crush you. 
As Howard Zinn touched on in this article Empire or Humanity, he himself if a WWII veteran and claims guilt of his naïve idea of what the war he fought in was really about. This is true even today; the United States has been waging a war against ‘terrorism’ for eleven years now. As an American citizen myself, having had two brothers in the military; I never questioned the legitimacy of our war in the Middle East as imperialism, like the majority of U.S. citizens and solders of WWII did not. As Zinn put it very clearly,
In wars, there is always a difference between the motives of the soldiers and the motives of the political leaders who send them into battle. It was to defend fascism and create a more decent world, free of aggression, militarism, and racism.
In the case of the Middle East, we invaded Iraq under the pretenses of finding weapons, and  now Afghanistan claiming to be saving the Afghani people from a brutal leader. The truth of the matter is the United States does not care; our intentions are anything but innocent humanitarian intervention. We interfered in Afghanistan to “implement a democracy”, yet in the case of Rwanda for example Clinton (after once publicly calling it genocide) would not declare Rwanda a genocide. Therefore, allowing the U.S (and the UN) not to intervene. The slaughtering of the Rwandan people does not affect the United States economy; so we had no reason to intervene. However, in the case of Afghanistan and the Middle East we use the mask of “humanitarianism” but I think our intentions are clear; we control Afghanistan—we control oil.
The policies that the U.S implemented all throughout Latin America from the nineteen-sixties up until now have had directly negative effects on the nearly entire region. For example the United States has been interfering and intervening in Nicaragua since 1909. From that point on the U.S is spotted throughout Nicaraguan history with its’ military occupations in the country. Not intervening against the government, but rather supporting and providing financial and military aid to the brutal Samoza dictatorship; because the Samoza’s played the economic game that benefited the United States. The United States did not care that they were directly funding one of Latin Americas most brutal dictator; because they got what they wanted out of it. The central ideas of the Roosevelt Corollary demonstrate clearly what the intention of the United Sates was and arguably still is—even if you have to read a little bit between the lines. “If a nation shows that it knows how to act with reasonable efficiency and decency in social political matters, if it keeps order and pays is obligations, it need fear no interference from the United States.” However,
Chronic wrong-doing or an impotence which results in a general loosening of the ties of civil society, may in America as elsewhere, ultimately require intervention by some civilized nation, and in the Western Hemisphere the adherence of the United States to the Monroe Doctrine may force the United States, however reluctantly, in flagrant cases of such wrongdoing or impotence, to the exercise of an international police power. …Our interests and those of our southern neighbors are in reality identical. They have great natural riches, and if within their borders the reign of law and justice obtains, prosperity is sure to come to them. While they thus obey the primary laws of the civilized society they may rest assured that they will be treated by us in a spirit of cordial and helpful sympathy. We would interfere with them only in the last resort, and then only if it became evident that their inability or unwillingness to do justice at home and abroad had violated the rights of the United States or had invited foreign aggression to the detriment of the entire body of American nations. 

This passage from the Roosevelt Corollary demonstrates the intentions of the United States with its “southern neighbors” perfectly; we will not intervene as long as you let us do what we see fit to benefit our economy by exploiting your resources. This is the general approach that the United States still uses to approach particularly Latin America but the rest of the world as well.
             United States feels the right to “exert upon the world the full impact of our influence, for such purposes as we see fit, and by such means as we see fit” (Henry Luce). These Neo-Liberal, Capitalistic policies have never been more clearly demonstrated to me as in Central America. The United States during the time of the Revolution in the late eighties in Nicaragua funded the Contra War; because the Sandanistas were seen as a communist threat to their power. The United States gave millions and millions of dollars to put down the revolution; they were unsuccessful. Now thirty years later the United Sates has a seemingly decent relationship with the very government they were trying to put down in the seventies. One might ask why that is, but the answer is simple. Even though Ortega outright denounces the United States and talks of anti-U.S policy, he does everything the United States asks of him. The Free Trade Zone in Managua is a perfect example of his compliance.
            Walking down the streets of San Salvador the thought of imperialism couldn’t have been more prevalent. With Mc Donald’s, Quiznos, Pizza Hut, Subway, KFC’s and Wal-Mart lining the streets and the dollarization of the Salvadoran economy, the connection between the U.S and El Salvador could not be clearer. The United States does not need to expand its territorial boarders and make El Salvador “its own”, because it doesn’t have to. As long as El Salvador allows neo-liberal policies that allow for the entrance and growth of multinational cooperation’s without any barriers; the U.S in affect controls El Salvador. We are going to come in, use you land, steal business from you people, use your resources, pollute your water and air; but we are creating jobs so you will accept it. If not the U.S will, “exert upon the world the full impact of our influence, for such purposes as we see fit, and by such means as we see fit”.  
One could look just a few years back into history and see how the United States funded the Guatemalan and Salvadoran militaries to slaughter their own people. The U.S funding of these wars could not be further from humanitarianism. During the eighties the Regan Administration funneled 1.5 million dollars a day to the Salvadoran military; in the name of fighting communism.  In Guatemala the civil war that the U.S waged on the Guatemalan peoples accused of communism, raged on for thirty six years and left two hundred thousand innocent men, women and children dead. Not to mention the deadly games that the U.S government played to insure Europe would not construct a Nicaraguan Canal instead of the P anama Canal. More recently we can look at the signing of CAFTA in 2005; the policies that were enacted under CAFTA did not benefit Central America, they only benefited the big business, multinational cooperation’s.
The situation facing Central America, particularly Nicaragua is a very complicated one. Though they are their own sovereign states, they are so intermittingly involved with the United States and its unfair policies they are on a path to the seemly unknown, but deadly. Imperialism today presents itself as humanitarian intervention, and is ridden with capitalism and neo-liberalism.  As the question was posed in class, “Is it possible for the United States to have a real human rights foreign policy”? 

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Nicaragua--Spring Break



Well, here we are nine weeks into our program. I cannot believe that we are on the last leg of our journey here in Central America with only six weeks remaining. In the wee hours of Sunday morning we started our journey to Nicaragua. We boarded a bus at three a.m. for a ten hour journey through Honduras and back down to Nicaragua to arrive in Managua in the late afternoon. As warned we were greeted by the sweltering heat here, with highs in the mid ninety degree range every day.  We have spent our first two days living in our student center that is also a hostel, and this afternoon we head out to the community that will be our home for the next six weeks: Batola. Batola is a very typical middle class barrio here in Managua, Nicaragua. Batola was actually one of the first housing projects erected after the FSLN Revolution; these houses were built to house the women who played role in aiding the revolution.  These are only things that we have been told; I am very excited get there this afternoon and find out for myself! We have been told that this is often the student’s favorite part of the semester, which is hard to believe because up until now it has been absolutely wonderful! I am really looking forward to being in a family-stay again, and have that aspect of family and Spanish in my life again. We have had a slow start here with our classes because after this week we all go our separate ways for spring break next week. We have just only started to touch on the topics and issues here in Nicaragua but I am really excited to fully delve in once we get back from break. Here in Nicaragua we will be taking two classes: Cultural Conflict and Change (In Latin America/ Women Context) and Citizen Participation in a Globalized Economy. Like Guatemala and El Salvador our classes will consist of a mixture of in class lectures from our professors, site visits, rural home-stays, and guest lectures from: government officials, non-governmental agencies and guerilla officers. Today was our first real class; but from what I’ve seen and learned so far the political situation here is a very unique and will be interesting to study. I cannot wait to get started on the last leg of this journey!
As excited as I am about getting started in our classes, I must admit I am just as excited to have a break next week. It has been a very busy nine weeks here, with only a few days of real down time. Spring Break plans were left up to each person to make. Myself and four other girls are heading to Leon, one of the old capital cities of Nicaragua. We will spend a few nights in Leon which has a lot of hiking opportunities and also a lot of historical sites and museums to take in, then we are heading for the second half of the week to a beach on the Pacific Coast. I plan to do some leisurely reading and lying in the sun all week! 




Suchitoto


We spent this weekend in Suchitoto. Suchitoto is situated about an hour away from the city of San Salvador; it is a little city with a lot of history. I would describe Suchi as a non-tourist version of Guatemala’s Antigua; all over you can see the remnants of its colonial past. It also sits right next to Lago Suchitlan, which makes it the Salvadoran get away destination. Suchi happens to be where our wonderful professor Sister Peggy lives and has created a cultural center and hostile. Post-war Peggy came here to aid the returning refugees; so twenty years of living in solidarity with the community has brought her a great deal of respect for her throughout the community. In her twenty years here Peggy has aided in numerous community building projects and helped (through her many connections) to fund many more.
While our weekend there was a beautiful get-away from the city life, it also served as a learning experience. Just a boat ride away from Suchitoto lays a massacre site; what was once like any other Salvadoran community, now 30 years later still remains abandon. A man by the Rogelio who was only nine years old at the time, was one of the only survivors of that lived to tell the tale of happened that horrible day. The community had been living in fear of attacks from the Salvadoran army for months before the massacre actually happened, and had actually fled their homes in the weeks prior. They were only returning because that had gotten word that the army had left.
Rogelio told his story to us, standing on the very ground in which the massacre of his entire family and community happened. It was like no testimony I have ever heard. If you can imagine the death camps in Germany; people lined up and executed, hanged, burned in their homes and starved to death. Rogelio merely escaped the same fate as his family, only by the smoke of the gun shots that took the lives of his sister and mother in front of him. He spent the next two days injured and trying to survive in what used to be his town; now a ghost town, abandon and half burnt to the ground. Later simply by pure fate, he would find his uncle who was a guerrilla soldier. From that point on his uncle took care of him and would reconnect him with his grandparents (who had fled the country).
Rogelio now lives with his wife and children in the newly created El Citio. All of the people who managed to survive these horrible events in the community of (most because they fled the country to Honduras) Copapayo, have created a community similar to Nueva Esperanza. Through organization in the community they have created a school, health care center and a library. They were proud to report that their community has Zero gang action; which is a huge accomplishment in a country that is the second most violent in the entire world (Yes--more violent that any current warring country in the world). They try to keep a proactive mentality within the youth in the community to keep drugs and gangs from entering the community.
Listening to Rogelio’s story and the feeling of standing on the ground where so many innocent people lost their lives is a feeling that will stick with me for the rest of my life. It is one thing to learn about the things that have happened, but it is whole different ball game to take action to stop future atrocities. As if this whole experience wasn’t enough, hearing his testimony concreted in my mind how and what war really does to communities. People can’t just be statistics and collateral in war.  
                                                                                                                                         

Monday, March 12, 2012

Resilience


I don’t even know how to begin to articulate my experience in the community of Nueva Esperanza – which I think is worth mentioning literally means New Hope. We arrived on Thursday afternoon and stayed until Sunday. All 15 of us lived in pairs with host families throughout the community. Nueva Esperanza is a community like I have never experienced, and certainly unlike anything I have had the opportunity to taken part in. The current community was formed after the war (1 year before the Peace Accords were signed). However, the people in the community have deeper connections to each other than I can even begin to understand.
                Before the war began the community that is now called Nueva Esperanza lived together in San Migalito. Before the years of the war’s actual beginning the community was faced with such violence and death they were forced to relocate (literally in the midst of gun fire) to a refugee camp.  Because of the war, there were ample refugees and not nearly enough space to house them all.  This community of about 20 families (so about 100 people) lived in the basement of a church. All 100 of them lived in a church basement with one sink and one toilet for over a year (afterwards reports would be made that it was one of the refugee camps with the most deplorable conditions).  The church in which they lived was always surrounded by the Salvadoran military; if anyone left the basement they would become “disappeared”. The only food they had was food that priests (the ones I mentioned were murdered in my last blog) and sisters of the church snuck in for them.  One can only imagine your children crying out from hunger pains, and having nothing to give them.
                Finally after that year the community was given refuge in Nicaragua, under the newly revolutionized Sandinista government. It would be there in Nicaragua where the community would really begin to organize its self and decide that they were going to learn how to read, write and learn agriculture. For 10 years in Nicaragua the community lived and learned, but they also knew that they wanted to return to their homeland; they were not going to live in exile for the rest of their lives. However, they had decided collectively because of the danger of going back (because their country was still in war time) that they had to return as a community.  At first the Salvadoran government would not let them; they said they could only allow one family at a time to return. After much resistance and advocacy from the community in 1990 they were able to return as a community to El Salvador. As expected upon return they had nothing: no homes, no food or means to provide for themselves. That’s not even to mention the fact that they had no place to educated their children or health care. What they did have however was their new found agricultural skills and knowledge, a plan, but most importantly they were in it together. They knew that their lively hood depended on one and other.
                Now to fast-forward 21 years later, they are flourishing. That’s not to say there are not things that they need or are working towards, but comparatively they are doing better.  The community has schools K-12, homes, multiple churches and a community arts center. How did all of these things come about you ask? Through unbelievable organization the community created an agricultural cooperative. The community works together to grow and sell; sugar cane, corn, coconuts, cows and dairy products. Primarily they use their crops to sustain themselves, but the surplus earnings are broken up into different funds and recycled back into the cooperative to continue its growth.  I also think it is worth mentioning that foreign aid (mostly Germany, Canada) has played a part in the community’s development. Not just from government aid, but outsiders coming to the community and being so impressed with the level of proactivity and organization, that individuals and organizations have donated money to help them.
                Just this past October this community and many others surrounding it were hit by record breaking floods. The houses were 4 foot deep in water. Water that was filled with debris from destroyed homes and deceased animals; they lost everything. Now here we are not even 4 months later and they are still there, starting over, rebuilding. That is resilience if I have ever seen it.  



Sunday, March 4, 2012

Liberation Theology - San Salvador


We arrived here in San Salvador, El Salvador only four days ago. The 15 of us live under one roof in a bed and breakfast, which for the time being is home. We have a beautiful backyard/courtyard area, along with many other cozy living areas around the house. Though we have only been here for 4 days, it feels like we have learned so much and there is still a wealth of information to be taken in.
            In our few days here we have had a couple different meetings with professors from the University of Central America (UCA), first to get the history of the country, then to get the more recent events and current issues. The class that coincides with El Salvador is Liberation Theologies. In order to understand the current political, economic and social situation, we have to learn about the past. El Salvador, like Guatemala is now just 20 years out of a very brutal civil war. Also very similar to Guatemala, now 20 years after the peace accords have been signed, nothing much has really changed. The oppressive economic, political and social structures that sparked the brutal war are still in place. Though the military may not outright be slaughtering its people it kills them economically and politically.          
            While the war here “officially” started 1980 the situation here was a very brutal hostile one leading up to its beginning. Liberation Theology Started in Central America during the 1970’s. The whole idea behind the movement was the people (the lower class/impoverished peoples) rising up and deciding that simply praying, and waiting for “God” to save them wasn’t going to fix their situation, they needed to be proactive in changing their government. Throughout Latin America there were many different movements of Liberation Theology, but El Salvador has one of the richest histories (We met with Oscar Romero’s secretary at the time of his assassination!! How cool!). There was this large movement of the people joining together to fight for their rights against their greatly oppressive government. It mostly started out as small pockets of people forming groups around the country, but would later form together to become the Farabundo Martí National Liberation Front aka the FMLN. This group of people fought against the brutal Salvadorian Army, an army who was responsible for some hundreds and hundreds of massacres all around the country.  
            As I mention before we have been speaking with professors from the UCA and we had to opportunity on one of those two occasions to go on campus for a lecture. Which was cool to get to see a college campus here, but the most powerful of all, is the fact that one of those massacres happened on the campus of UCA.  Six Jesuit Priests were brutally slaughtered one morning, along with two other innocent bystanders, “No one was to be left to testify”.  We were able to take a tour of the museum there on campus, and tour the sight where the murders occurred. Having that opportunity to be there tour the campus was moving to say the least.  Among other things, the museum contained the clothes the priests were murdered in, photographs of the scene of the crime and part of the tour is even the room the two by standards (a mother and her daughter; of the lands-keeper to UCA) were murdered in.  
            Obviously all of this was very hard to take in, and very gruesome. However, I think what sickened me the most is the fact that my own country U.S.A funded every bit of that war. The U.S funded the Salvadorian military (along with other L.A countries) to fights its own people who were accused of becoming communist.  It’s a big game of chest, with just a few million lives at stake.  The idea of this makes me ill, knowing that here and all over the world we have funded and are funding wars were we don’t fully understand the whole impact of our choices. 































Saturday, February 25, 2012

Chwitxirbal Rural Stay


     Well, our first rural stay is officially over with. Going into it, I definitely did not know what to expect. The community we stayed in is a small very rural community called Chwitxirbal (Twit-city-bal), which sits about 30 minutes up in the mountains above Xela. The whole community of Chwitxirbal consists of about 15 families. As one could imagine our arrival to the community was widely known and anticipated as our group of 15 students and 2 coordinators occupied 9 homes in their community (2 to a home).
       We were welcomed with such open hearts and arms. In retrospect it was just 5 days out of our whole semester, but I could just feel how special it was for the families to have us there, how much it meant. We arrived on Sunday and we were received by the mayor of the town and our families. From there we all dispersed out into our host families. My family was the Victoria family; there was an older lady, her daughter and 3 younger children. As tends to be, the more rural communities are densely indigenous populations. The majority of the families there speak an indigenous language as their primary language and Spanish as their secondary. This surprisingly made communication a bit easier, since from both ends we were trying to speak in a secondary language. Going into this I didn’t think that our families would have running water or electricity, but they did. There was running water to the sink to do dishes and we had a light in our room, they had a latrine and a wood burning stove.




















     The food we ate there was so fresh and tasty, the corn to make the tortillas was freshly ground and there queso fresca and milk was straight from the cow fresh. With every meal we had this really wonderful hot drink made from masa (ground corn), it was surprisingly sweat. While we were there we had to opportunity to have a cooking lesson with a local woman. We learned how to make envueltos, a Guatemalan dish. Enveuelto literally translated means to wrap, but basically they are any vegetable dipped in this egg batter and fried. We also had fresh chamomile, mint and lavender tea to go with our meal.
     I think the highlight of being in Chwitxirbal was the different dynamic with our teachers from PLQ. For the four days, they all road a bus up into the community in the morning and we would have our class there. This week was special though, we all were intentional in finishing up all of our graded tests and works so that we could just hang out and have conversations with our teachers. We went on hikes in the mountains, walked around the community and just soaked up the beauty of our surroundings. It was really a beautiful week.  



















Good-Bye to Xela


I cannot believe that our time here in Xela is coming to an end. Between PLQ, salsa, yoga and our weekend excursions, our four weeks here flew by!  As all things must come to an end though, it is time to move on to the last phase of Guatemala.  I have had such a wonderful time here and I’ve met such wonderful people. It feels like I just moved in with my family here, I am very sad to say good-bye. I never expected to become so attached to my family and home here, but I am truly sad to have to pack my room up and say good-bye.  I couldn’t have asked for a more welcoming family, at every turn they were there for me with open arms. I truly felt like part of the family.  Xela feels like home; finally I know my way around the city and we are beginning to recognize people as we walk the streets. In the four weeks of studying at PLQ our group developed a close bond with the teachers. It was hard to close that chapter of our trip and say bye to PLQ and our wonderful teachers as well. They were all so kind and patient with our various levels of Spanish. I am happy to note though, that we have all made tremendous strides in our language skills!


For our last week of classes at PLQ we do a home-stay with families in a rural community called Chwitxirbal. There we will be living in pairs in the community for the week. The communities there don’t have running water or electricity. I’m sure it will be a wonderful learning experience, but I have to admit I am a little nervous to say good bye all the comforts of living in a city. 

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Lake Atitlan


This weekend was the first free weekend we have had yet; we decided as a group that we wanted to go to Guatemala’s famously gorgeous Lake Atitlan.  Lake Atitlan is actually where I say that I fell in love with Guatemala two years ago on my first trip to Central America. It is this beautiful lake surrounded by volcanoes, mountains and beautiful artisan markets.  Because of the lakes beauty, the majority of the property directly surrounding the lake has been bought up by wealthy foreigners. The houses and hostels surrounding the lake are just extravagant mansions.   This weekend we stayed at a very nice hostel  on the lake front, with a sauna, massages and fancy three course meals that all seem very expense in relative to how we have been living in Xela (but still cheap relative to the States).
                The contrast here is hard for me to swallow. While I have undoubtedly had a wonderful relaxing weekend here, it is hard to know that only a few kilometers up the mountains there are communities that are living very impoverished.  Some of these fancy hotels have indigenous people as their staff but I feel like it’s just a front. Look we will hire the locals, even though they only speak Spanish and 95% of our customers do not speak Spanish, or care to because they are simply vacationing here. For example the hostel we are staying at has indigenous women working in the kitchen. As I am sitting here right now writing this the women from the kitchen keep coming out to serve the food to customers, and because they only speak Spanish they have to keep going and getting the rest of the staff who are white foreigners to help  because they cannot read the names on the tickets for the food.            
Something just doesn’t sit well with me. While we sit here and drink our fancy drinks and eat our three course meals, there are people nearby barely surviving. Yesterday we took a boat to a couple towns over and hiked back. We saw more white people than we did locals. I guess whenever a developing county becomes established as a tourist spot, there is always going to be a divide between the locals and the tourist. I am not sure how to reconcile the two.
                

Monday, February 13, 2012

Privileged


 It has been an amazing experience to live with a family here.  I will not lie it was a real challenge in the beginning to live with a family here. Coming into this we really didn’t have a ton of information about the socioeconomic status of our families. The only homes I had ever visited in Guatemala and Central America were one roomed, dirt floored homes where they may or may not have running water; so that was the image I had in my head before we arrived here. When we got here our coordinators told us that the families that we would be living with ranged from lower middle class to upper middle class elites here. With that being said I guess I had a notion in my mind of what my home was going to be like in accordance with a lower to upper middle class home in the US. The first day I moved in I nearly had a panic attack, the house was not as I had expected. The bathrooms do not always have toilet paper and the toilets don’t always work. I had expectation in my head of what a middle class home should look like. Now that we have been here for three weeks, I guess I have digested my initial thoughts. My family seems to be fairly well off. They have a dog, a large fish tank, Rosi my host mother does not make her own tortillas and all of their four children go to school.  In general I think we go into things with expectations and “norms” to be upheld.  As a group one of the things we have challenged ourselves with is the notion of things here being “weird”. Challenging ourselves not to judge, who are we to judge what is “normal” or “not normal”.  
Being in a minority here has also been a new experience; standing out because of my skin color is something I had never experienced before.  While it is a new experience, negative or not, I’m unsure but it is a learning experience.  In the markets (especially last weekend in Chichi) we are especially targeted by the vendors to buy their goods. At times it is truly uncomfortable, having people following me around trying to sell me things. I took a step back, how horrible that I am a white person and seen as having money. What a horrible stigma? For me to feel that way was hard, but people of different racial minorities and majorities face racial stigmas every day of their lives; in the work place, in educational settings and on the streets. 
If anyone is interested in learning more about some of the issues we have been talking about in our group here is a really great article we read: White Privilege: Unpacking the Invisible Knapsack http://nymbp.org/reference/WhitePrivilege.pdf    it’s kind of long, but it’s really good! 

Monday, February 6, 2012

Chichicastenago


                This morning we left Xela, and made the two hour journey to the town of Chichicastenago. Among many things, Chichicastenago has a very high population of indigenous peoples and is home to one of Central Americas largest Artisan Markets. Guatemala is world famous for their beautiful artisinary goods; purses, blankets, quilts, table runners; all distinct by their beautifully detailed tapestries. Our trip here was partly about going to the market to buy gifts and other goods for ourselves but we also had an opportunity to hear from some very special women.
                As I mentioned before the war here affected and still affects the lives of many. We had the opportunity to meet with 10 women who were left widowed after the war. These women are just 10 of who knows how many others; their stories are distinct because their husbands were all brutally murdered by the Guatemalan “Civil Defense Patrol”.  Just to give a little back ground on the “Civil Defense Patrol”, this was created by the Guatemalan military to protect communities from the guerilla armies.  However, these so called “Civil Defense Patrol” were not always peaceful, it was more along the lines of you are with us or against us, agree or be killed. As one of the women shared with us, her husband refused to join the commission. He was beaten, mutilated with a machete and left nearly dead in the street where she found him. She brought him back to their home where he later died. As it was unsafe for her to have affiliation with people who the patrol saw as threat, she had to put is body back out on the street so her and her children would be safe from further persecution.
                In the wake of the war and the 1970’s earth quake these women all found themselves nearly starving with their children, homeless and widowed. In cooperation with a local Methodist church they decided they were going to do something about this, they learned the art of weaving. They started out with just about a hundred pounds of thread that was donated to them. They women split the thread up and began what is now a coop. 18 years later these women sell their hand made goods in local markets and are supporting themselves and their families.  We had the opportunity to break bread with these amazing women and hear their stories. We heard stories of babies being beaten to death with rocks, against trees and even tossed in the air and shot. Friends and family brutally murdered or simply disappeared, their bodies never to be seen again. The atrocities that these women survived is amazing, they still are able to get up every day and even smile.


                Hearing their stories put me back in reality. Sometimes I get stressed or worry about things in my life, but I have not and hopefully will not ever have to experience the things that they have endured and I am thankful for that. 

Language School and Home Stay


Our first week here in Xela is coming to a close; this week has been a busy one, full of lots of new experiences. As they warned us, the weather in Xela (being that it is very high up in the mountains) is rather cold. Naively I thought it couldn’t possibly be that cold, I’ve lived in IL and PA. In the mornings and nights it is especially cold. Even during the day if the sun is not out it is so cold I had to buy a scarf and a warmer jacket.
Sunday morning myself and the 14 others parted ways and moved into our new homes with our host families. My family is the Pérez family; there are three young boys and a girl ranging in ages between 5 and 15.  They have been wonderfully welcoming and helpful to me.  I have my own room on what I think was once a roof top that was converted into more bedrooms. Though I was sad to say goodbye to my new found friends, it is nice to have my own space and not be living in a hotel out of a duffle bag. Our family’s only real obligation to us is to provide three meals a day and a bedroom. My family is very nice, the boys always want to color with me or play tag.  I suppose after noticing that I am always shivering, my host mother decided yesterday that I needed to go buy a jacket, so she had Andrea (my host sister) take me to buy a couple sweaters! They have all been so wonderfully hospitable and patient with my broken Spanish.
We started language school on Monday morning, as expected it is a real challenge. Each student spends five hours a day one on one with a teacher, working on whatever it may be that needs improving.  There has been a couple days this week that I wondered what the heck I am trying to do here. I just keep reminding myself that mastering a language is no easy feat. At times it is overwhelming to be completely immersed in the language, but it seems to be the most effective way of learning. I have a lot of improving to do!
 I am learning so much more here than just the language of Spanish. The civil war here has been a topic that as a group we have been learning about, it is very interesting to be living alongside people who have such remarkable stories to tell; people who have seen unimaginable things in their lifetime. I have found myself talking with my professor for extended periods of times about the war and the current politics, it is fascinating. This week we heard from a variety of very different speakers; a Guatemalan military officer, a woman ex-guerilla leader and women whose husbands were killed by the military’s “Civil Defense Patrol”. It has been interesting hearing all of the different sides and accounts of what happened here.  As an out-sider looking in it is easy to point fingers and say what one particular group did was better than the other, I am learning that what one person sees as “truth” may not be another’s. I am in no position to make judgments; I cannot and will not ever understand or feel all of the factors that led people to make the decisions that were made. 

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Semana Numero Uno en Guatemala


A few days have passed here in Guatemala since we arrived. They have been very hectic but I have loved every minute of it! My self and 14 others arrived in Guatemala City on Monday at various times, we were all pretty wiped from traveling so we just relaxed once we got there; since then though we have been on the go non-stop. We only spent one night there and part of Tuesday afternoon. We spent one night in Antigua (the old colonial capital) and finally made the 4 and a half hour trek up the mountains to Quetzaltenango or Xela as the locals refer to it (pronounced Shayla). Xela will be home for the next 5 weeks. Currently we are living in a hostel, but on Sunday night we move in with our host families that are located around the city. We have only been in Xela for two days but it seems to be a vibrant city, with a great deal of hustle bustle, restaurants, coffee houses and bars on every street corner. There is a good mix of the native people and tourists here; there are a few restaurants that cater to us “gringas” as they call us here.
Though our classes technically do not begin until Monday, we have had guest speakers come talk to us about Guatemala’s bumpy history with its recent civil war, and the affects that are still very much a part of daily life in Guatemala. Guatemala had a new president take office on January 14th, this man happens to be an ex-general of the Guatemalan Military. A military that is infamous as being one of the most brutal militias in Latin America. This man is openly known to have carried out multiple massacres throughout different communities during the war. As one could imagine this presents an interesting dynamic for many people of the country.  As one of the speakers said peace accords were signed in this country 15 years ago to stop the civil war that was ragging; yet nothing seems to have really changed fundamentally. He said, “They may not kill us with bullets anymore but they kill us politically and economically”.  I cannot even begin to touch upon on or understand all the affects that this is going to have on the people of Guatemala. Guatemala has seen such turmoil and chaos in its years, yet its people are some of the most beautiful, resilient people I have ever met. As we travel and learn, the problems that are daunting this region seem almost impossible to solve. I hope however that I am able to reflect upon what I see as the flaws here, and return to my own country with a more critical eye for not only foreign policy but the flaws within my own country.  A famous quote keeps ringing in my ear:
“I am only one, but still I am one. I cannot do everything, but still I can do something; and because I cannot do everything, I refuse to do the something that I can do.”
                                                                                    --Edward Everett

Until we meet again!