As Central American
style would have it our expected 2 hour journey to Estelí on Tuesday morning
ended up taking about 5 hours. Ex-military personal set up a tronke blocking the road leaving Managua—so we had to
turn around, head back to Managua, and
leave town heading the other way. As I have learned you never know what
you are going to find when traveling here; it is always an adventure of some
sort. We only spent one night in the town of Estelí (which is one of
Nicaragua’s largest tobacco producing towns) and headed the next day on the
second half of our journey further up into the mountains of Nicaragua.
Our last home stay was in a community called Santule. This community, as many other Nicaraguan and Central
American families, has a long history of coffee production. In this sleepy little town of only about 200
people, there are about 12 small coffee
cooperatives. Each cooperative’s members have coffee trees on their land to
harvest and sell the beans; mostly organically produced. When it is time to
harvest each cooperative member pools their crops together to sell to the
buyers who buy the “green beans” as they call them. The beans are then roasted,
packaged, and exported around the world.
During these three days
we spent up there we had the opportunity to stay with the farmers and their
families. As we have been here for three months now, done a fair bit of
traveling and stayed with a variety of different families; I have seen varying
levels of poverty. However, the poverty in Santule, struck
me. My family and all of the families had kitchens that consisted of dirt
floors, a wood burning stove and maybe a dining room table. None of the
families had running water; all of the water they used had to be carried in
buckets from hand crank wells—there were two in the community. There was mostly
no electricity. A few families, through international aid, have managed to buy
solar panels to have a little bit of power to use in the nights. I say that I
was struck by the poverty because going into the homestay I was very excited to
see how an organic, fair trade coffee cooperatives worked and how they have
improved the lives of the families.
The farmers of the fair
trade organic coffee get certified as
an organic farmer (which costs the farmer around 4,000 US dollars) and this insures
the farmer a certain minimum price for their crop even if the international
market for coffee drops. I don’t understand how it can be labeled “fair trade”
when the farmer, who is doing the majority of the work, might make around 6,000
US dollars a year. Yet to buy a bag of whole bean coffee from Starbucks for
example costs $11.95. While if the
farmers had access to money to buy the machinery needed to take the coffee from
harvest, to roast, to packaging and exporting; they could reap the real
benefits of their work. The main pillars of fair trade are to; pay a fair wage
in the local context, provide equal opportunities for all people, particularly
the most disadvantaged and to provide financial and technical assistance to
workers whenever possible. This is not to discredit fair trade, because I think
that fair trade and cooperative work has done wonders for many different
communities, but is fair trade really fair trade?